Reminiscences of My Visit to China (1992)

Reminiscences of My Visit to China (1992)

Hardev Singh Virk

Ex- Director Centre for Promotion of Science, Guru Nanak Dev University, Amritsar

E-mail: hardevsingh.virk@gmail.com

After joining Guru Nanak Dev University as Head Physics department in July 1979, I started my odyssey to universities of Europe for research collaboration. My friendship with Professor Abdus Salam (Nobel Laureate) helped me a lot. I was offered Senior Associateship of International Centre for Theoretical Physics (ICTP), Trieste, Italy in 1985, which covered my travel expenses. Later on, Third World Academy of Sciences (TWAS), Trieste, Italy extended this facility for my travel to developing countries under South-South Fellowship Program. My visit to China was sponsored under this fellowship for a period of 4 weeks.

I landed at Beijing airport on 2^nd September, 1992. China Institute of Atomic Energy, Beijing hosted my visit and Dr Shi-Lun Guo was my research collaborator. I met Dr Guo in 1983 during an international conference in Acapulco (Mexico) and started research collaboration.

During 90s, China started on its journey of liberalization. Buddhist temples were opened to public and tourists were allowed access to mainland China. Perhaps, I was the first Indian Scientist who was allowed entry into Nuclear Reactor complex in Beijing. During first week, I was asked to Chair a session of International Conference in my field. I found Chinese scientists very shy as they failed to communicate in English. China was wriggling out of Maoist legacy; the ruthless massacre of students fighting for democracy in Tiananmen Square was fresh in my memory.  

My impressions of first visit are still fresh. Beijing airport was almost identical to old Palam airport of India. There were no foreign made cars on roads of China. Beijing roads were crowded with cycles. The Chinese workers and students used to wear old Maoist uniforms. Jean culture was totally absent in China. University students were not allowed to loiter or date openly; if caught they were asked to kill flies and mosquitoes on the campus! Entry to university was restricted and admission was strictly on merit only.

During the first week, my stay was arranged in Minzu hotel in the downtown Beijing. During Hindi-Chini Bhai-Bhai era, Pandit Nehru was also lodged in this hotel. From the hotel window, I could have a glimpse of Chinese workers going to their work places on their cycles as if locust swarm has descended on the road. There is no right to strike work in China; that is how China has maintained highest growth rate of economy in the world. Workers and engineers were bracketed in the same salary group; pay disparity was kept to the minimum in most of the establishments. Education, health facility and housing were provided to all in China free of cost. I found my collaborator and his driver occupying similar accommodation; a 2 bed apartment. It is need based, not status based as in India. There were no private baths in houses; all had to share common baths in the Atomic Energy establishment. There were no IAS, IPS, Military Generals or Business magnates lobbies anywhere in Mao’s China. All were reduced to mere entities along with proletariat.

I was a special guest in China under TWAS Fellowship. I was privileged to have a chauffeur-driven air- conditioned car at my disposal. My collaborator tried to keep my driver in good humour by providing some costly gifts. The boss mentality was totally absent in China. There were hardly any frauds or scams reported in China; during my sojourn a bank manager was involved in a foreign currency racket and he was put to death after a summary trial. Severe punishments were given to party dissidents, criminals and law breakers. In India, it is free for all; hardly any political leader or law breaker goes behind bars. Indians enjoy freedom in real terms!

What impressed me most in China was discipline. It was built into their genetic code; as we have corruption built into Indian genetic code (refer to Nirad Chaudhary’s famous quote: Indians are genetically corrupt). Beijing was found to be cleanest city with clean Metro stations underground and regulated traffic on roads. There were NO BEGGARS or mendicants (Sadhus) anywhere in China. Chinese ladies were not exploited by hooligans as in India. Bollywood culture was missing in China.

I visited some rural areas in the neighbourhood of Beijing. The presence of rich farmers was non-existent. Most of the farmers used mini-tractors (a contraption called jugad in Punjab) for transportation of goods. During my visit to Tangshan city, I observed the rural life on the way. Most of the un-employed rural youth were provided odd jobs, for example, sweeping of highways or main roads in the area. Dignity of labour is appreciated by the Chinese. My visit to a High School revealed that Chinese youth are provided skill training along with class teaching. The monster of un-employment was not visible in China. But the salaries were bare minimum just at subsistence level.

When I look back after 20 years, China has made a tremendous progress on all fronts vis a vis India, namely in scientific research, industrial production and economic growth. I learn from Chinese friends that jean culture has pervaded China but riches have not yet spoilt the Chinese as the Irish poet Oliver Goldsmith quoted: “Where wealth accumulates and men decay”.